In popular culture, the myth of the tanned, blonde surfer goes back to the first Gidget movie in 1959. Irish-Hawaiian surfer George Freeth gets credit for introducing the sport to California in 1907. Captain James Cook observed surfing off the coast of Tahiti in 1777. "Like any language, it's always evolving."įolks have been climbing waves for well over 200 years. "Surfing is a sensation that demands a special language to describe how it feels," Cralle says. Surfers have at least as many terms for a wave - which can be "macking," "double overhead," or just "buggery." Indeed, there are many nuances that escape the landlubber who's never ridden a big one. The Eskimos might have a 100 different words for snow.
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